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This website introduce Kogin embroidery,one of the traditional handicraft in Tsugaru area,Aomori prefecture. Recently kogin become very popular not only Aomori but also Japan, even though on abroad. 

“LAB” of title means laboratory.The purpose of this site is to tell about kogin embroidery.

I will upload what I’ve learned about kogin.And also,I'd like to show my embroidery works.

"SALON" has a meaning to hope interactive communication about kogin through this site.

This site is targeted people all over the world who are interested in kogin.I would be happy if KOGIN LAB & SALON could be a guide to Japanese people who want to teach kogin to expatriates. 

■ABOUT SITE

HOME(This page): Introducion about site and introduce some kogin patterns.

Patterns&meanings: Explain the meanings of kogin patterns with photos.

Expand patterns: Introduction patterns for embroidery on large cloth.

Articles about kogin :Texts about kogin.To know more about kogin,access  BLOG.

KOGIN LAB & SALON is operated by kogin＊bear style(KOHIRO),an artist of teddybear with  kogin embroidery.

All of articles and pictures,embroidery is made by kogin＊bear style.

ABOUT ME is Here. blog of koginbear style is Here.

If you had any question or opinions about this site,feel free to ask me from CONTACTS.

ogin embroidery is one of the Japanese traditional embroidery in Tsugaru area.

The name of "kogin" refers to short linen work clothes worn by farmers.

These kimonos reinforced with thread were called "sashikogin."

Kogin embroidery is said to have begun in the Edo period. Historical documents such as "Omin Zui" contain records of women wearing Kogin kimonos.

The "Hirosaki Hancho Nikki," an official record of the Hirosaki Domain, also records that in addition to Kogin, there were farmers who wore cotton kimonos.

Tsugaru area is the west part of Aomori prefecture.It places in the northern most tip of Honsyu.

Despite cold and snowing in winter,farmers in this area were only allowed coarse linen clothes.

Because other cloth for clothing,such as silk or cotton were so expensive.

Only people of high status could wear silk. Cotton was a plant from south which could not be cultivated Tsugaru. Used cotton clothing was imported from Osaka and other places, and was therefore expensive and not something that ordinary people could wear.

Therefore, in rural villages, hemp was grown and dyed indigo to make kimonos. Because this was too cold, embroidery was done with cotton thread to fill in the gaps in the weave of the hemp cloth.

At first, it was just simple stitching, but various patterns began to be created.

These patterns are called "modoko." It is said to be a corruption of "moyou" (pattern), or that it means element.

Kogin embroidery was practiced by women from farming families.

Mainly young women embroidered kogin on their wears. Girls began learning Kogin embroidery from around the age of five. It was common for them to learn how to embroider from their mothers.

By the time they get married,they were able to embroidery various geometric patterns.

Because the patterns were passed down from mother to daughter, the characteristics of the patterns differ depending on the region.

The first patterns to be embroidered were small patterns such as Kacharazu, Hanako, and Mameko.

Each pattern is named after a flower, animal, insect, etc. Some are also called in the Tsugaru dialect.

Traditional Japanese patterns also influenced Kogin embroidery.

By the way, the Tsugaru region is famous for apples and cherry blossoms, but there are no apple or cherry blossom patterns.

This is thought to be because apples and cherry blossoms were not yet famous during the Edo period when Kogin began.

There are three types of Kogin embroidery: Nishi Kogin, Higashi Kogin, and Mishima Kogin.

The characteristics differ depending on the region.

It was done in the western part of Hirosaki city to the Meya area.

Horizontal stripes are embroidered on the shoulders. This is effective in preventing wear from rubbing when carrying a heavy load.

The linen material is finely woven, making it a suitable design for going out and formal wear.

There are many kogin kimonos with a pattern called "Sakasakobu"on the shoulders.

Since there were many people who burned charcoal in mountain villages, it was a curse to avoid being bitten by vipers when hiking in the mountains.

It was done in the eastern part of Hirosaki city to Kuroishi city.

The Kuroishi domain was a branch domain of the Hirosaki domain during the Edo period. The pattern is widely spread over the entire cloth.

It was done around Kanagi in Goshogawara city. It has a unique design with thick horizontal stripes embroidered from the shoulders to the back and upper chest.

Kogin embroidery is not widely practiced in this region, so there are only a few pieces.

In the Meiji era, with the opening of the railway (1891), cotton, silk and other fabrics became more readily available, and Kogin embroidery fell out of fashion.

Afterwards, it started to attract attention again as part of Yanagi Muneyoshi's Mingei movement.

The Mingei movement began in 1926 and was a movement to find beauty in everyday items created by hand. It was led by Yanagi Muneyoshi and others.

Nowadays many people enjou kogin embroidery as a type of handicraft.

Know more about pattern ＞show Patterns and Meanings.

There are three types of Kogin embroidery: Nishi Kogin, Higashi Kogin, and Mishima Kogin.

The characteristics differ depending on the region.